Hello from Cuba (8) - Bicycle Rides, Camellos and Cannon Shots
          by Susanne Pacher
            
            After picking up the bicycle on Thursday, I finally took my first 
            ride on Friday afternoon through the beautiful residential area of 
            Vedado. We had had a tropical downpour in the early afternoon, so 
            the streets were a bit wet and it was about 4 pm or so by the time 
            I got out. Of course, by that time, rush hour traffic had already 
            started and there were thousands of people in the street, waiting 
            for buses. The bicycle was a pretty new mountain bike, but it seems 
            that all the gears and derailleurs were totally screwed up and I constantly 
            had problems with the chain. 2 of the 3 chainrings in the front didn''t 
            work at all and I had a pretty hard time getting along with the bike.
            
            But even more so than the technical difficulties, the stares I got 
            from all the locals were a really unnerving experience, especially 
            since there were so many people in the street. You don't see too many 
            modern bicycles on the street, and even fewer are ridden by women. 
            Of course the guys whistle at you at every turn, which, as I am told, 
            is totally part of the culture and not a threatening gesture. Nevertheless, 
            I did feel rather unnverved with this experience.
            
            Bicycles in general are basic means of transportation here, not recreational 
            vehicles. And considering that even a very basic new bike at maybe 
            $100 or so is worth 5, 6 or even 10 months of state salary, it's not 
            surprising that they tell you never to let the bicycle out of your 
            sight. And riding through the streets I almost felt as if I was surrounded 
            by a group of lions that were ready to pounce to capture their prey.
            
            So as a result I decided, I'd rather not attract that much attention 
            to myself and I decided to hand the bike back to the owner. The last 
            thing I wanted is for the bicycle to get stolen, so I decided I'll 
            wing it with regular transportation options and do more walking, getting 
            some exercise at the same time.
            
            In the evening my friend Pedro and I decided to catch the "GuaGua" 
            again and we took a "Camello" (a very large bus with 2 humps, 
            pulled by a truck engine) from around the Capitolio to the other side 
            of Havana Bay to the old fortress of "El Morro" which was 
            built in th 16th century. The Camello was so full that one of my feet 
            couldn't touch the ground and the hydraulic doors coulnd't close because 
            people were hanging out the door. Certainly an experience.....
            
            Every day at 9 pm they have a ceremony at the fortress where they 
            have a few men dressed up in old (colonial?) uniforms and they shoot 
            off 2 cannon balls across the bay to commemorate La Habana's military 
            past. El Morro and Las Cabanas is an interesting area with a museum 
            and numerous stores selling tourist merchandise. After the ceremony 
            we caught another, much less overstuffed, GuaGua back to the western 
            side of La Habana and we had another very affordable dinner in the 
            Barrio Chino.
            
            This time my intestinal system was okay and I caught a good night's 
            sleep to rest up for the weekend.
          
           About the Author
           Susanne Pacher is the publisher of a website called Travel and Transitions 
            (http://www.travelandtransitions.com). Travel and Transitions deals 
            with unconventional travel and is chock full of advice, tips, real 
            life travel experiences, interviews with travellers and travel experts, 
            insights and reflections, cross-cultural issues, contests and many 
            other features. You will also find stories about life and the t-ransitions 
            that we face as we go through our own personal life-long journeys.
            
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            The travel story with photos is published at Travel and Transitions 
             Travel Stories (http://www.travelandtransitions.com/stories_photos/hello_cuba_8.htm).